Growing Cattleya Orchid
Traditionally regarded as exotic and fragile, many species of orchids have been available as undemanding houseplants only recently. Modern cultural methods now produce plants that boast blooms of myriad stunning shapes and colors and that are easy to care for in the home. Although most orchids originally came from tropical and subtropical climates, modern plants bred for home use are remarkably adaptable. Cattleyas are some of the most commonly grown orchid plants, and their culture is often used as the basis for comparison with other types of orchids. Like most other cultivated orchids, Cattleyas are epiphytic, or air plants. Because they are epiphytic, they have developed water-storage organs, called pseudo bulbs, and have large, fleshy roots covered with a spongy, water-retentive velamen. They are accustomed to being dry at the roots between waterings, and therefore should be potted in very porous, free-draining media. Flowers and Foliage
The flowers of Cattleyas and their related hybrids come in most all colors of the spectrum. Those wonderful corsages we remember from high school proms were cattleyas. The hybrids of today don't produce such large blooms but are still breath-taking in their beauty. Leaves on a healthy plant should be a medium green color.
Locating Orchid In Home
Cattleyas love lots of good light and humid conditions. Finding a spot with perfect conditions in a normal home is not difficult, but does take some care. You need to find the right light, proper temperature range, and be able to create some humidity for the plant.
Light
Light is one of the most important factors in growing and blooming cattleyas. Bright light to some sun must be given to the plants, but no direct sun in the middle of the day. This means an east or west facing window or a south facing window that is shaded with some kind of sheer material. In the summer, it can sit outside on a deck or patio facing north, out of direct sun. Cattleyas will grow well under fluorescent lights. A bank of four lights in one fixture gives enough light to do the job. The lights need to be positioned just above the leaves of the plants and should be on for 12 to 16 hours every day. Some orchid lovers position the lights vertically so the plants get sufficient light while the plant is more visible for appreciation. Temperature
As with most orchids, cattleya like to to have a temperature variation from day to night of about 10 degrees. Most homes don't offer that range normally. Recommended temperatures are 55ø-60øF at night and 70ø-85øF during the day. This means you don't place the plant directly above a hot air outlet. If you have hot air heat then one trick is to shut the vent of the outlets in the orchids room at night and open them again in the morning, keeping that room a bit cooler than the rest of the house. Higher day temperatures can be tolerated (up to 95ø, if humidity, air circulation, and shading are increased.
Humidity
Cattleyas need 50% to 80% relative humidity to stay happy. Two ideal locations for good humidity is the kitchen or the bathroom as long as there is a window with good light. Humid conditions can be provided by placing the plants on trays of gravel, partially filled with water so that the plants stand above the water. Mist the plant in the morning only is helpful in dry homes with hot air heating systems.
Air should always be moving around the plants to prevent fungal or bacterial diseases, especially if high humidity and/or cool temperatures exist. That means you don't clump orchids up real close to each other so that natural air flow around the plant is hampered.
General Plant Care
Growth Stages
Cattleyas will usually have a growth period and a dormant period each year. It is difficult to predict that period in general since it will vary among the many different kinds of cattleya plants. During the growth stage, green foliage is obviously developing. When that stops, you can suspect the plant is moving into its dormant stage. Late fall and early winter are likely times for the dormant period for an orchid growing in a home. Feeding
Fertilizer must be given to cattleyas on a regular schedule. In fir bark, a high nitrogen (30-10-10) formulation is best. High-phosphorus or bloom-booster (10-30-) may be used occasionally (every 4 to 6 applications) to make sturdy growth and promote healthy blooming. When in active growth, plants need fertilizer every two weeks, and when not growing, once a month. Fertilizers can also be applied with every watering at 1/4 recommended dilution. Thorough flushing with clear water every month is recommended to prevent buildup of fertilizer salts.
Watering
Water should be provided in two ways: in the pot by watering and in the air as humidity. Watering in the pot is dictated by many criteria-size and type of pot, temperature, light, etc. Mature cattleyas need to dry out thoroughly before being watered again. Compare the weight of a dry pot of the same size and type of medium; it can indicate if a plant needs water. A freshly sharpened pencil inserted in the potting medium can be an indicator of moisture. If in doubt, it's best to wait a day or two before watering. Plants in active growth need more water than plants that are resting. Water below 50ø may injure plants, as will softened water.
Potting
Potting is necessary when 1) the rhizome of the plants protrudes over the edge of the pot, or 2) the potting medium starts to break down and drain poorly (usually after 2 to 3 years). It is best to report 1) just before new roots sprout from the rhizome, 2) after flowering, or 3) in the springtime.
Cattleyas are usually potted in medium-grade potting material, with seedlings in fine grade. Until a plant as six mature pseudo bulbs, it generally should be put into a larger pot and not divided. If dividing a plant, 3 to 5 bulbs per division are required. Select a pot that will allow for 2 to 3 years of growth before crowding the pot. Place a small cone of potting material in the bottom of the pot, cut off any rotten roots, and spread the firm, live roots over the cone. Fill the pot with medium, working it in the roots. Pack firmly; stake if necessary. Keep the plant humid, shaded, and dry at the roots for a while to promote new root growth. A vitamin B-1 solution may help re-establish plants quickly.
Month to Month Care for Cattleya Orchid
March
Cattleya Orchid – Watering - Mature Cattleyas need to dry out thoroughly before being watered again. Compare the weight of a dry pot of the same size and type of medium; it can indicate if a plant needs water. A freshly sharpened pencil inserted in the potting medium can be an indicator of moisture. If in doubt, it's best to wait a day or two before watering. Plants in active growth need more water than plants that are resting. Water below 50ø may injure plants, as will softened water.
April
Cattleya Orchid - When in active growth, plants need a dilute liquid fertilizer every two weeks, and when not growing, once a month. Fertilizers can also be applied with every watering at 1/4 recommended dilution. Thorough flushing with clear water every month is recommended to prevent buildup of fertilizer salts.
Optional - Potting is necessary when 1) the rhizome of the plants protrudes over the edge of the pot, or 2) the potting medium starts to break down and drain poorly (usually after 2 to 3 years). It is best to repot
- 1) just before new roots sprout from the rhizome,
- 2) after flowering, or
3) in the springtime.
May
Cattleya Orchid – As night temperatures stay above 60F, you can move your orchid outside. In the summer, it can sit outside on a deck or patio facing north, out of direct sun.
June
Cattleya Orchid – Watering - Mature cattleyas need to dry out thoroughly before being watered again. Compare the weight of a dry pot of the same size and type of medium; it can indicate if a plant needs water. A freshly sharpened pencil inserted in the potting medium can be an indicator of moisture. If in doubt, it's best to wait a day or two before watering. Plants in active growth need more water than plants that are resting. Water below 50ø may injure plants, as will softened water.
September
Cattleya Orchid – When night temperatures cool it is time to bring your orchid inside. Bright light to some sun must be given to the plants, but no direct sun in the middle of the day. This means an east or west facing window or a south facing window that is shaded with some kind of sheer material.
Reduce feeding to once a month.
October
Cattleya Orchid - Cattleyas need 50% to 80% relative humidity to stay happy. Two ideal locations for good humidity is the kitchen or the bathroom as long as there is a window with good light. Humid conditions can be provided by placing the plants on trays of gravel, partially filled with water so that the plants stand above the water. Mist the plant in the morning only is helpful in dry homes with hot air heating systems.
November
Cattleya Orchid - If you have hot air heat then one trick is to shut the vent of the outlets in the orchids’ room at night and open them again in the morning, keeping that room a bit cooler than the rest of the house. Higher day temperatures can be tolerated (up to 95ø, if humidity, air circulation, and shading are increased.
December
Cattleya Orchid - Air should always be moving around the plants to prevent fungal or bacterial diseases, especially if high humidity and/or cool temperatures exist. That means you don't clump orchids up real close to each other so that natural air flow around the plant is hampered.
POSSIBLE ORCHID PROBLEMS
Symptom Probable Cause
Leaves curled and discolored; honeydew evident
on undersides of leaves, sometimes sooty mold forms Aphids
Leaves mottled, yellow; tiny white insects
feeding underside of leaves Whiteflies
Leaves yellow, drop; bumps on leaves and stems;
sometimes sticky material on leaves Scale
Leaves stippled, yellow, dirty; webbing on interior
stems of plant Spider Mites
White, cottony masses on roots and stems, above or
just below surface; plant wilts, yellows Root Mealybugs
Cottony insects underside of leaves, stems,
crotches; honeydew apparent; sooty mold Mealybugs,
Tiny insects fly when plant disturbed; roots
damaged, seedlings may die Fungus Gnats
Chew seedlings; plant parts close to soil Springtails
Mottled leaves, new leaves stunted, flowers mottled Virus
